The Ria de Ferrol does not sound overly attractive when the guide book is read, mainly because its a large naval and commercial port with little in the way of marinas or anchorages.
However because it is close to where we were and because we like to make our own minds up about places we decided to take a trip and have a look.
As we left the Ria we let out the trolling line and much to our surprise had a bite within a few minutes (very different to the hours we spent the days before trying to catch one of the thousands of elusive Mullet that were swimming around the boat). Unfortunately we didn’t recognise the fish we hooked but landed it anyway and it transpires it was a needlefish. Perfectly edible, although the filleting left a lot to be desired meaning the small fillets were full of tiny greeny-blue bones, which after a bit of research we found was completely normal for this type of fish. The fish likers said the flavour was nice so one we will try again if we get the opportunity.
The few miles across the mouth of the Ria de Betanzos were a slightly rolly affair with the Atlantic swell that had obviously built since we entered the Ria, hitting us directly on the beam, and no wind to steady the rig. However after a short time we were entering the steep sided valley and headed up the estuary to the imposing defenses which guard this natural harbour.
Our friend Julie on the bow, with the older fort behind
The entrance seems narrow due to the height of the hills either side but there are tankers and naval ships inside so it is obviously an illusion.
We passed the anchorages and continued into the wide open commercial area then after a quick tour around, returned and dropped anchor in the middle of an almost empty bay – a few local yachts on buoys on one side, a small beach on the other and nothing else.
I can’t say it ranks as a ‘must go back’ place but certainly one we are glad we visited. The anchorage was perfectly still overnight, and watching all the locals fishing in small open boats all down the estuary as we left in the morning, certainly left an impression of a true ‘locals’ Ria, we were left wondering if they were fishing commercially or just for the fun of it. Unfortunately we had to leave to come home so didn’t have the opportunity to find out.